My last visits were in 2006 and 2008, and my photographs have become much more touristy, more street photography. I was interested in how much colour there was on the streets: workmen wearing hi-viz clothing; different coloured taxis, including a company of women drivers; colourful manteaux for women.
The parks were coiffed and well-used. The fast-food revolution had arrived while street food was still popular. Produce in the bazaar was presented beautifully. Men were having nose jobs. Children were begging on the street. The Istanbul Avenue flee market was packed at the weekend. The cultural bazaar was active with bootleg copies of Western films and a growing number of specialist magazines, including for women and for children. Indeed, Tehran seemed as diverse, contradictory and lively as ever. Perhaps only in Iran would biscuits – from the Armenian bakery – show both happy and sad faces.